Naples-Style Italian Food Finds in Bird Rock

The Italian way to a rich life lies in close family and good food. Though Daniel Dorado, the man behind Bird Rock’s newest restaurant, Voce del Mare, hails not from Italy, he shares the philosophy of its people and, in fact, revels in seeing others do the same.

Dorado began cultivating staff, nay family, for his newly opened restaurant several years ago. While dining at San Francisco’s Mona Lisa, he met Giovanni Mennella, the man who would become his general manager.

“I was looking at his restaurant to have a party,” he said. “I saw the menu and said, ‘If I ever open a restaurant in Orange County or San Diego, would you run it for me?’ ”

That was two years and one steadfast handshake ago. Now, it’s not only Dorado’s vision and Mennella’s management that are drawing crowds at the newbie locale, but true Naples-style cuisine by an executive chef and recent transplant from Italy. Enter Giovanni Novella, completing the trifecta.

Though his immigration papers arrived later than anticipated, pushing the restaurant’s opening date back, Dorado was patient. In Dorado’s mind, Novella was it; scouting an alternative was out of the question.

“We had a commitment to each other, and we were determined to keep it,” Dorado said.

Novella came to La Jolla from Naples just to helm Voce del Mare. His recipes hail predominantly from back home, with special attention to fish and other meats. The pasta selection is sparse, but stunning. Take, for instance, the Pappardelle Bassano: housemade pappardelle pasta with Italian sausage, wild porcini mushrooms and truffles. And there’s no pizza. The menu may evolve in the future, but for now diners will get only the type of food served in the charming Campania region of Italy, which shares a climate similar to that of San Diego. No Americanizing. The wine list is nearly as thoughtful, with selections from California and Italy.

The fast-paced lifestyle of most restaurateurs is familiar to Dorado, who owns an ad agency.

“In my mind, I’m always moving,” he said.

He calls the Giovannis, both restaurant veterans, his family and, though his resume shows no trace of restaurant experience, he’s building what he thinks is the perfect dining experience.

“I’m smart enough to know that I don’t know anything about the restaurant business, but I know it will always come down to service,” Dorado said. “If you’re not cordial and respectful and kind, I don’t care how good the food is.”

These traits: Cordiality, respect and kindness, he hopes, permeate both the food and the experience. When dining at Voce del Mare, don’t expect servers to usher you out with a premature check presenter and a grin-infested ‘have a nice day.’ As in Italy, guests are invited to dine and socialize as long as they’d like.

Raised a Mennonite, an abundantly peaceful Christian sect, Dorado doesn’t escape his roots. He was taught from a young age to respect others. That, paired with his Curious George sensibilities, as he calls them, and the quick-witted, kind-hearted restaurateur may soon have the hearts—and attention—of most La Jollans.

And he’s faithful. Our call dropped several times during our conversation; turns out he was on his way to Pasadena—for a haircut.

“I just drove 87 miles to get my haircut because Becky is the only woman I trust to cut my hair,” he said.

That type of devotion—and inner circle sensibility—could make him an honorary Italian, though his own Latin American culture shares a healthy dose of each.

While he’s eternally on the go, Dorado’s patience is as virtuosic as a classically trained musician sitting down at the exquisite grand piano that decorates the restaurant might be.

“[Giovanni] kept waiting and waiting [for his papers],” he said. “The whole process of getting him here legally was long. We never [gave up].”

Ah, tenacity. It’s the stuff of which dreams are made. And with the right ingredients—both food and otherwise—Voce del Mare is poised to become a dream come true.

“You can accomplish something when you have your heart set on [it],” he said.

Voce Del Mare hosted a grand opening on May 27. The restaurant is located 5721 La Jolla Blvd. in Bird Rock.

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