In Chicago, it’s the deep dish pizza. In New Orleans, one seeks out a tasty gumbo. And in Boston, well, you’ve probably heard they serve up a mean bowl of New England clam chowder.

At the heart of every great city lies that one, iconic chow-time staple. By and large, these flagship dishes are uncomplicated in nature, but done precisely in a way that speaks clearly to the local flow.

In San Diego’s coastal culture, the representative is, undeniably, the beloved fish taco.

While already well established as an essential piece of the coastal cuisine definition, San Diego foodies and chefs alike continue their enthusiasm with and exploration of the endless possibilities in recreating the classic fish taco.

Executive Chef and Partner Trey Foshee of George’s at the Cove is one such enthusiast, as is evidenced by his multiple variations of the dish on each of the local establishment’s three unique menus—California Modern, George’s Bar and Ocean Terrace. However, the current spotlight shines on the version found within California Modern’s bill of fare.

Listed simply as, “Fish Tacos” (purposely in quotations) on the restaurant menu, they’ve more recently been dubbed, “Inside-Out Fish Tacos,” by a recognizable on-air personality.  

On Jan. 9, Chef Aarón Sánchez of the Food Network went on record as a huge admirer of Chef Foshee’s new spin on an old favorite—and he did it in grand, nationally televised fashion. The dish was featured on an episode of the network’s series, The Best Thing I Ever Ate, in an installment dedicated to successful reinventions of old classics.

“They have all the elements of an average fish taco but in a different form,” said Foshee.

The George’s kitchen, headed up by Foshee, had been thinking about an upscale version of the coastal favorite for a while when the idea came to them.

“Fish tacos are a San Diego icon, and so are we [George’s],” said Foshee. Befitting the challenge, they wanted to come up with something that did both parties justice.

Featured on the menu for about a year now, the deconstructed formula utilizes yellowfin tuna, fried avocado, cabbage, corn nuts, jalapeno aioli, petite cilantro, radish and lime.

Immediately noticeable is the lack of a tortilla on the ingredient list. This is because, well, there isn’t one. The customary duties of containment are, instead, loosely performed by that which typically constitutes the primary filling—that’s right, the fish.

While the absence of a traditional taco encasement may confuse some diners, it would seem a minor roadblock to overcome when considering reviews of this dish—and not only those airing on national television.

Executive Chef Matt Gordon of North Park’s Urban Solace had this to say: “I wasn’t sure what to expect upon ordering the 'Fish Taco,' but I was blown away by Trey’s revision of this staple of San Diego food culture.”

According to Gordon, the interplay of the rich battered and fried avocado with the toast of ground corn nuts plays perfectly with the raw flavor of the fish. “My wife and I were still talking about it two days after dining there,” added Gordon.  

While Foshee’s kitchen and cuisine are no stranger to accolades, having been featured on nationally broadcast stations like Food Network and CNN before, the acclaimed chef still points out that it’s always nice to be recognized.

“The response has been, overall, extremely positive,” said Foshee. And the orders are rolling in off George’s California Modern menu.

As for acknowledgment specifically focused on a recreated local dish, a fellow San Diego chef like Gordon sees it as an important part of the continually emerging culinary identity of our coastal city. He praises chefs like Foshee for creating menus that incorporate not only pieces of local and regional culture (like the fish taco), but the bounty of what our region has to offer.

“San Diegans are demanding more, and innovation and unique items are making their way to the forefront as we establish a culinary identity unique to San Diego,” said Gordon.

The Food Network episode featuring Chef Foshee’s “Fish Tacos” are scheduled to re-air Jan. 28 and 29. To see the distinctive take on fish tacos in the flesh, call 858-454-4244 or go online for California Modern reservations at George’s at the Cove.